Choosing the right exide inverter battery can feel like more than a shopping decision. It is a decision about comfort, about cost and about how much certainty you want when the lights go out. Some people buy the cheapest option and learn the hard way. Others choose a model after a little planning and get steady dependable backup for years. This article helps you be the latter.
Here you will find clear explanations not technical walls of text. We cover the common types and what they mean in real life. We show how to size a battery to your actual needs, how to care for it and what to watch for so you avoid surprises. Short practical steps. No confusing jargon.
Read on and you will be able to pick the right exide inverter battery with confidence. By the time you finish you will know which questions to ask the seller, how to spot early problems and which small habits add months and often years to useful life.
Why Exide Inverter Battery is a common choice

Exide is a widely recognized brand in many markets. People choose an Exide inverter battery because the range covers low maintenance sealed models and heavy duty tubular designs. There is something for light home use and something for intense daily outages. What matters most is matching the battery to your real needs. Price alone is not the right way to choose. Think about the hours you want backup for, how often you expect outages to happen, and whether you can perform or access regular maintenance. Those factors make the difference between a battery that just sits and one that really serves.
Different battery types explained simply
Sealed maintenance free valve regulated lead acid battery
These are tidy. They do not need water top ups. They are compact and convenient. They suit light to moderate use where you want low fuss.
Tubular battery
Built with tubular plates, these are designed for deep discharges and frequent cycling. If your power cuts are long and regular, tubular batteries usually last longer and perform more reliably.
Flooded battery
This type needs regular attention. You top up water. You monitor electrolyte. They can be cost effective and robust but they demand more care and proper ventilation.
Each type has trade offs. Sealed units are easy to live with. Tubular units are built for endurance. Flooded units are heavy on maintenance but can be economical for certain setups.
How battery capacity relates to real backup
Capacity is typically given in ampere hours, abbreviated as Ah. That number tells you how much current a battery can supply over a given time. But practical backup depends on a few more things. Discharging deeply, again and again, shortens life. Heat reduces usable capacity. Inefficient inverters and long cable runs waste energy. So when someone tells you a battery is 150 Ah, ask how it will be used and what voltage it runs at. A 150 Ah battery at 12 volts stores a certain amount of energy. That energy must be divided by the total load and accounting losses to estimate actual runtime.
Quick reference tables placed together for easy scanning
Below are two compact tables placed together so you can scan capacity and product family notes at a glance. These are intentionally simple so you can quickly pick a ballpark size before doing precise calculations.
| Typical 12 Volt Battery Capacity Ah | Typical Use Case example |
| 80 Ah | Basic lights and a single fan for short outages |
| 100 Ah | Lights, one fan, small TV for moderate outages |
| 150 Ah | Lights, fans, small fridge, TV for medium outages |
| 200 Ah | Multiple appliances and longer backup times |
| Exide Product Family | Quick note |
| Tubular inverter series | Best for frequent and long outages due to deeper cycle strength |
| Sealed VRLA range | Low maintenance and neat installation for light to moderate use |
| Solar ready tubular series | Designed to handle solar charging and heavier cycling |
These two tables give a practical snapshot. If you want a precise calculation, list your appliances and the hours you need and we will calculate Ah for you.
Step by step how to calculate the right battery
List the appliances you want to run. Note each appliance wattage. To obtain watt hours, calculate the product of wattage and the duration in hours. Add them up. Convert watt hours to ampere hours by dividing by the battery voltage. Then add a margin for inverter inefficiency and a buffer so you do not discharge the battery fully every time. For example if your total need is 1200 watt hours and your battery system is 12 volts, divide 1200 by 12 to get 100 Ah. Then allow for inverter efficiency and desired depth of discharge. You might choose a 150 Ah battery to be safe rather than push a 100 Ah unit hard.
Matching battery type to your usage pattern
If outages are short and rare choose a sealed maintenance free unit for low maintenance. If outages are long and happen frequently choose a tubular battery that is made for deeper discharge cycles. For systems that are integrated with solar or that face heavy daily cycling choose a solar ready tubular option. The right match prevents frustration and reduces overall cost per year of useful life.
Installation basics and safety
Batteries are chemical devices that store energy. They need respect.
- Install in a cool ventilated area.
- Keep terminals clean and tight.
- Use the correct gauge of cable and proper connectors.
- Observe polarity carefully.
- Provide space around the battery for air circulation.
Always follow basic safety. Use eye protection when handling batteries. If you have a flooded battery handle electrolyte with care and use distilled water only for topping up. Keep batteries away from flames and cigarette smoke.
Charging right matters more than you think
Proper charging extends battery life. A multi stage charging approach is best. Bulk charging rapidly fills most capacity. Absorption concentrates on bringing voltage to the correct level. Float mode maintains charge without overcharging. If you use a quality inverter charger that follows these stages you will see real benefits. Wrong charging either undercharges and causes sulfation or overcharges and stresses the battery. Both shorten life.
Routine maintenance that prevents early failure
Even sealed batteries benefit from occasional checks. For tubular and flooded models check electrolyte levels and top up with distilled water as required. Clean terminals and apply a light coat of protective grease after cleaning. Check mounting and cable connections for tightness. Test the battery voltage occasionally both resting and under load. If you or your installer keep a simple log it becomes much easier to spot gradual deterioration before it becomes a failure.
Common problems and what to do first
Battery not holding charge
Try a proper slow charge and re test. If it still drops quickly the battery may be aged or sulfated.
Terminal corrosion
Disconnect safely, clean with a baking soda paste, dry thoroughly and re secure. Apply terminal protector.
Battery heating during charge
Stop charging and inspect. Excessive heat can indicate internal damage or wrong charging settings. Seek professional help.
Swelling or leakage
Do not continue using. This indicates severe internal failure. Replace and dispose of the old unit safely.
Warranty and service made practical
Warranty terms depend on the model. Some batteries come with a free replacement window and then a pro rata period. Always register your purchase where registration is offered. Keep the invoice and service records. If you use an authorized installer and follow recommended service routines you are more likely to have successful warranty claims. Ask the seller to explain the exact steps to claim a warranty. Do not assume every seller will handle claims the same way.
Recycling and environmental responsibility
Lead acid batteries must be recycled at the end of life. Many dealers accept old batteries for safe handling and recycling. Returning spent batteries to authorized centers avoids environmental contamination and often results in proper material recovery. Ask the seller about recycling options and insist on responsible disposal practices.
Lithium alternatives and when they make sense
Lithium batteries offer high usable capacity, lighter weight and often longer cycle life. They cost more upfront. They require compatible charging and battery management systems. If you are replacing lead acid with lithium ensure your inverter supports lithium chemistry or that you have the appropriate battery management system. For some users the long term total cost of ownership makes lithium attractive. For others, especially where upfront budget is a major constraint, lead acid remains the practical choice.
A buying checklist you can use at the store
- Confirm the inverter compatibility and the recommended battery Ah.
- List appliances and required hours to estimate Ah.
- Prefer tubular for frequent outages.
- Measure the installation space to ensure the battery will fit.
- Verify warranty terms and registration process.
- Confirm dealer support and service availability near you.
- Ask about recommended chargers and accessories.
Walk through this checklist to avoid surprises. It is short and effective.
Installation tips installers sometimes overlook
Place the battery slightly elevated to avoid accidental damp contact. Leave space for ventilation. Use compression type terminal connectors for reliable conduction. Label cables and make a simple service sheet that lists purchase date serial numbers and installer contact. These small steps pay off later.
Cost versus useful life a realistic perspective
A higher price for a tubular model can be justified by longer useful life under heavy cycling. Compare not only the purchase cost but the expected life under your usage pattern. Consider warranty terms and local service support. Think in terms of cost per year of service rather than just the initial sticker price.
Troubleshooting checklist before you call for service
- Check inverter settings and error lights.
- Measure resting battery voltage after at least a few hours without charge or load.
- Test under load to observe voltage drop.
- Confirm charger output voltage and current ranges.
- Inspect for visible corrosion swelling or leaks.
Document what you find. A short written list will speed up diagnosis and prevent unnecessary service visits.
When to replace rather than repair
If run time has shortened dramatically if the battery is past expected service life or if there are signs of internal damage, replacement is the safer choice. Batteries have a finite life. Persisting with a badly degraded battery increases the risk of failures and safety problems.
Top practical tips in one place
- Size the battery to actual load not just to budget.
- Choose tubular for heavy frequent outages and sealed for low maintenance.
- Use a multi stage charger.
- Keep clear service records and register the product.
- Recycle old batteries responsibly.
Conclusion
Choosing the right exide inverter battery matters more than choosing the cheapest option. Match the type and capacity to your real needs, prefer tubular models for frequent long outages and sealed models for low maintenance situations, and always size the battery with a safety margin rather than pushing it to its limits.
Charge the battery correctly with a multistage charger and keep simple maintenance routines. Clean terminals, check electrolytes where applicable, and keep records of purchase and service. Those small habits add months and often years to useful life.
Think beyond the sticker price. Compare expected life under your actual use pattern, warranty conditions and local service support. When the battery reaches end of life, return it to an authorized recycling channel to avoid environmental harm.
If you follow these practical steps you will get reliable backup from your exide inverter battery, fewer surprises and lower overall cost over time.
Frequently asked questions
Q What is the main difference between tubular and sealed models
A: Tubular models use tubular plates for better deep discharge endurance and are suited to frequent long outages. Sealed models are low maintenance and are ideal for light to moderate use where convenience matters more than extreme cycle life.
Q How do I calculate the right capacity in ampere hours
A: Add the wattage of each appliance multiplied by the hours you need to run them. Divide the total watt hours by the battery voltage to get ampere hours. Add a margin for inverter inefficiency and battery discharge limits then round up to the next practical battery size.
Q How often do I need to check water levels in a tubular battery
A: Check electrolyte levels regularly during heavy use. A practical rhythm is once every one to two months in hot climates and slightly less frequently in mild climates. Always top up with distilled water only and follow the manufacturer’s guidance.
Q Can I mix old and new batteries in a bank
A: It is not recommended. Batteries of different ages and health lead to imbalance and shortened life for the entire bank. Use matched new batteries for reliable performance.
Q What are the typical signs that show immediate attention is needed
A: Excessive heating during charge, visible leaks, strong odors swelling or a sudden dramatic reduction in run time are all signs you should stop using the battery and seek professional help.
Q Is it worth paying more for a tubular battery
A: If your use involves frequent deep discharge and long outages then the extra upfront cost typically pays off with longer life and better reliability. For light occasional use a sealed maintenance free battery can be a better fit.
Q How do temperature and location affect battery life
A: High temperatures accelerate degradation and lower usable capacity. Keep batteries in a cool ventilated area away from direct sun and heat sources. Temperature control matters as much as charging routine.
Q What basic maintenance can I do at home safely
A: Keep terminals clean and dry, check for loose connections, inspect for swelling or leakage and ensure the installation area is ventilated. For flooded batteries, handle electrolyte carefully and top up with distilled water only.
Q How should I dispose of or recycle an old battery
A: Return the battery to an authorized recycling center or the dealer who sold it. Many sellers accept old batteries for safe disposal and recycling. This prevents environmental harm and ensures proper material recovery.
Q When should I consider switching to lithium
A: Consider lithium if you want higher usable capacity per weight, longer cycle life and can afford the higher upfront cost. Confirm your inverter and charger support lithium chemistry before making the switch.

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